Friday, February 29, 2008

Taking the 'Frenzy' out of Feeding Time

Horses are natural grazers. They would like nothing better than to stand around the pasture, alternating grazing and napping, 24/7. It's what they are born to do. So in the winter months when grazing isn't an option, it's no wonder they get a little over-excited and rambunctious at feeding time. But it doesn't have to get out of control.

Defending your personal space at feeding time, and demanding your horses are respectful, is simply a matter of safety. If you've ever carried a grain bucket or a bale of hay into a pasture and found yourself in the middle of 8 horses fighting over the food you know what I'm talking about. Teaching your horses to respect your space at feeding time isn't difficult, and could save you a trip to the emergency room.

My Space Is Not Your Space
In my pasture and barn our horses are not allowed to get within 4 feet of me when I'm carrying hay or grain. And, they must stand at the back of their stalls before I'll put grain in their buckets. It's just that simple - they want food, they need to back off. So, how do I get them to cooperate?

I never enter the pasture with food without having a training stick and string. As the horses approach me, I hold up the stick up in the air. They have the choice at that point to stay out of striking distance or get tagged. I slap the ground in front of them before they enter my space to give them an extra warning. If they continue into my space, they get tagged. After several days of being consistent with the consequence of entering into your space, most horses will get the idea and stand back until you get out of the way.

Mmmmm.... Grain.....
I use a similar technique when graining my horses in their stalls. I ask them to go to the back of the stall and don't put the grain in their buckets until they are standing quietly in the back of the stall. This takes patience. You have to be consistent and not allow your horse to rush the grain bucket while you are pouring in the grain. Be willing to stop, step back and ask them to go to the back of the stall until they can stand quietly. If you're consistent for 4-5 days, soon your horses will go the back of the stall as soon as they see you coming.

Feeding time at our farm has gone from 'every man for himself' to a controlled, safe event. Most of the time, our horses don't even attempt to approach their hay or grain until we walk away. Take the time to teach your horses respect and politeness at feeding time - you'll be so glad you did.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Stacey Christiansen runs a natural horse boarding and learning center in Delhi, Iowa, which provides articles and resources from training tips to technical help about setting up your own horse website. Sign up for her newsletter at www.DelhiEquestrianCenter.com and get a FREE horse care guide.



Source: http://www.postarticles.com/Article/Taking-the--Frenzy--out-of-Feeding-Time/42432

Nutritional Needs for Goat

Efficient use of nutrients for goat depends on a sufficient supply of energy, which is of supreme importance in decisive the productivity of goats. Energy lack delays kid growth, delays teens, decrease fertility, and depresses milk production as well. With continued lack the animals show a simultaneous reduction in confrontation to infectious diseases and parasites. The difficulty might be further complex as well by deficiencies
of protein, minerals, and other vitamins.

Energy limitations might really result from insufficient feed intake or from the low class of the diet. Low energy eating that result from either feed constraint or poor diet component digestibility prevents goats from meeting their needs and from attains their genetic possible. High water content of forages might further become a limiting factor.

Energy supplies are affected by age, body size, development, pregnancy, and other lactation that have been treated as divide items in presenting requirements. Energy requirements are as well affected by the environment, hair growth, muscular activity, and even with having relationships with other nutrients in the way of diet which, for best results, requires to be supplied in sufficient amounts. Temperature, humidity, sunshine, and other
wind velocity might augment or reduce energy requirements depending upon the region. Stress of any kind might boost up energy requirements.

Shearing mohair from Angora goats and pashmina from Cashmere goats reduces insulation and that in turn results in increased energy requirements, particularly during cold weather. Goats are actually more active and travel greater distances than the sheep, which boost up energy requirements. Maintenance supplies of goats on pasture, browse, and other range, particularly in mountainous and transhumance grazing, are significantly
greater than those of stable-fed animals.

High-quality roughages supply about 2 Mcal metabolically energy (ME) per kg dry matter (DM). Roughage-focuses mixed rations are at times necessary to augment the energy content of the diet to 2.5 or 3.0 Mcal ME/kg DM when feeding early weaned kids or high-producing on the dairy goats. The efficiency with which energy is exploited for weight gain, pregnancy, and little other lactation frequently increases with increasing levels of ME
attention in the diet.



Source: http://www.postarticles.com/Article/Nutritional-Needs-for-Goat/45705

Homemade Dog Treats - Easy Recipes for Dog Treats

So maybe you want to give your dog some really tasty treats, but you can't really afford to spend the money. On top of that, you're worried about treats that contain unhealthy ingredients. Well, there's a great option for you: Make your dog's treats at home.

Many owners are worried about the dog treats they purchase, especially with the recent dog food contamination scares.

So instead of buying them, you can just as easily make your own homemade dog treats. So here are a few ideas to help you make the following treats at home for your dog:

Peanut Butter Dog Treats

Many dogs love peanut butter and you can make some great treats with this ingredient. Here's what you do: Add 1/2 cup of peanut butter with 1 & 1/2 cup of all purpose flour, 1 & 1/2 cup of whole wheat flour, 1 cup of water, and two tablespoons of oil. Cut them into small treat like pieces and bake for 20 minutes at 350 degrees F.

Oatmeal Dog Treats

Here are even more great homemade dog treats that are not hard to make at all. Add and mix together 1 cup of cold water, 1/2 cup of whole wheat flour, 1 teaspoon of baking soda, 3 cups of oatmeal, 2 egg yolks, and a tablespoon of parsley. Spoon the mixture onto a cookies sheet and bake them at 350 F for 15 minutes. Your dog is going to love these.

These are just a couple of the great treats that you can make for your dog at home. They are very inexpensive to make and you won't have to worry about preservatives that can be harmful to your dog.

So, if you want to be sure that your dog has all natural dog treats, go ahead and make your dog some tasty homemade dog treats.

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Source: http://www.pcwriters.com/Article/Homemade-Dog-Treats---Easy-Recipes-for-Dog-Treats/102031

10 Lessons to Survive the Horse Show Circuit

Our daughter showed on the A Circuit for 3 years at shows that were mostly in the southeast. We live 15 minutes from the Olympic Horse Park in Atlanta, so we had many circuit show opportunities at home. We also found our way to the Capital Challenge and National Horse Show in Wellington for two of those years.

Some of our more interesting experiences:

1. RV fire in Gulfport: We had an electrical fire and totaled an RV three days into a two-week stint at the Gulfport show. Instead of visiting the beach like we had planned, we instead went from motel to motel and took whatever room they had until we had to leave to accommodate their reservations. We lived out of plastic bags filled with tack and clothes that smelled like smoke. Despite this setback, my daughter was a champion that weekend. We stayed focused on our work and problem-solved the rest moment-by-moment. I think she became a pro at working under adverse conditions.

Lesson: Roll with the punches and move on.

2. Nationals 2003: Both the rider and horse did very well, received many ribbons, and was named reserve champion for her division. There was an awards ceremony, pictures, and a very excited kid and trainer who had made it to a goal. Two months later as we were reading the Chronicle of the Horse, we were amazed to see someone else listed as the reserve champion for her division. Does anyone inform us at the show or call to say there was a mistake in the interpretation of the rules? Nope, we had to read it a magazine. When we called to find out what happened, the response we received is that we should "get a life", as it's not their responsibility to tell us they took away a reserve champion from the NHS.

Lesson: Life is unfair and that adults do not always act responsibly, rules are unimportant, and your connections and who you are is more important than playing by the rules.

3. Ambulance takes daughter out of the ring on a backboard: Yes, my daughter had the great fall. She took a distance long at 3'6" and then crashed with both rider and horse going down. Her neck snapped and she was unconscious, but she came to thinking she is in the roundpen at home. She had no memory of crash and we called the ambulance for a ride and afternoon at the hospital. Thank goodness for helmets with back piece for the neck. She had a MRI and CAT scans and was fine, and she even walked out of hospital on pain medication and rode a flat glass the next day.

Amazingly enough, we never heard from the horse show office or the officials. We went to sign out and they wanted her ribbons and money back because she did not finish the division. We then encountered a steward who lectured me on division rules. I did not disagree with him, but was simply stunned at office's response and speechless at their tone.

Lesson: Do not send calm but shaky mother to check out an accident. There's a new rule needed when kids fall off their horse and nearly kill themselves. You need time, care, and practice to come back from a bad accident.

4. Major year-end EQ class: We leased a horse and practiced for months to try to rebuild my daughter's riding confidence. We also took up EQ, won medals classes and all was going well. The big EQ final class was down to the top five. My daughter was not called back for top three. Her ride was beautiful and she, along with her trainer and others at the gate, were surprised that she wasn't in the top three. We decided it would be helpful to get some feedback from the judge, as we assumed she must have made a major mistake that no one saw.

We found the steward and got permission to speak with judge when show was over. The judge took my daughter aside, looked at her score sheet and told my daughter that she simply overlooked her despite the fact that she was top in the class but her score was overlooked when the finalists were called. My daughter was sworn to secrecy and could only tell us (her parents) and her trainer that the judge made a mistake. Wow, months of preparation go down the drain. The judge was honest and we appreciated that. We did need this show for her college tape, so we didn't call attention to the situation. However, no one offered to reimburse our money (I guess this was much too high an expectation on my part). We honored the judge's request, kept our mouth shut, and moved on.

Lesson: Judges make mistakes. We need to focus on the fact that we are riding for the best ride and not ribbons/trophies.

Other lessons:

5. Teamwork and partnership replace normal mother-teen daughter relationship at the shows. We have developed a way of working together that has laid a foundation for our adult relationship. We each had our roles and job description, and it only worked successfully when we did our jobs. My role was her partner -- driving, grooming, holding horses, and providing a safe horse and a solid trainer.

6. Let the trainer and the daughter work as a team. Parents need to stay out of the training, even if you showed as a kid and think you know as much as the trainer. You are hiring a professional, so let them do their job. If you feel you must speak with the trainer, have the conversation in private away from the kids and the ring. I developed the habit that once they left the barn, I stayed a safe distance away in the schooling area and at the ring. I never stood at the gate but on the side to give them their space to work, and I stayed out of the way.

7. You are not the customer. I finally realized that I was not the real customer for the horse show managers and secretaries. The real customer is the trainer, who is the person who picks the horse shows and classes, brings multiple horses and riders, and is someone with whom they feel they more comfortable negotiating.

Even though I may pay the bill, at the end of the day the show managers do not treat me like the customer. This is the only situation I can think of where I spend thousands of dollars and am not the real customer. Once I adopted this mindset, I saw the picture of my place in the show world.

8. Judging is political and can be unfair. There are too many situations where the judges buy, sell, train or do business with other trainers. It is just the way it is in the show world. I do not see any way of fixing this -- it is just a fact that you have to deal with that. Help your rider focus on the best ride and the experience rather than the politics of what trainer is at the ring, who knows what judge, etc.

9. Parents focus too much on winning and put pressure on the kids and the trainers to perform for the ribbons. I have watched parents stand at the gate yelling at kids during a class, recounting points with the gatekeeper, putting down judges, and giving a tough time to their trainers. At Nationals I remember one mom who yelled at a kid during a flat class while only five feet from the judge. Another mother publicly told her child that she would never show again if she couldn't win. Kids and trainers are working with horses, not robots, and it takes a combined effort of the rider, horse and trainer for it all to work together. We as parents really need to watch ourselves and the impression and tension we create at shows. Our focus should be on the ride done to the best of our rider's ability that day.

10. Kids need to be held up to a standard of sportsmanship. They may be individually competing against each other, but there is no excuse for rudeness, lack of common courtesy to the trainer, the horse, and other competitors and parents. I have shared our golf cart with many crying mothers who just had a rude exchange with a teen daughter. Maybe we do too much for them and make horse showing a right instead of a privilege. I don't have the answer to that, but we need to role model sportsmanship.

Would I do it again? Absolutely yes, as my daughter gained confidence, learned to set goals, discovered that hard work can help you achieve those goals, and developed the discipline it takes to be an athlete.

Copyright (c) 2007 Kathy Keeley

Veteran show mom Kathy Keeley is founder of ShowMom.com, the first online community created especially for horseshow mothers and daughters who want to learn how to successfully navigate the horseshow circuit and maintain a great mother-daughter relationship. Get our free horseshow packing list when you sign up for our free email newsletter, The Savvy Show Mom, at ShowMom.com.



Source: http://www.postarticles.com/Article/10-Lessons-to-Survive-the-Horse-Show-Circuit/44773

Thursday, February 28, 2008

How Showing Horses Has Made Me a Better Parent

Horse showing provides many opportunities to parent and raise a healthy teenager. My best listening opportunities occur when my daughter and I travel to and from horse shows. We're both feeling nervous anticipation on the trip out each morning, but I've discovered it's an ideal time to find out what's uppermost in my daughters mind. Surprisingly during this time, what she's thinking about often has little to do with horse showing. In fact, most times it has to do with school or friend situations. More recently, her mind is occupied with thoughts about her relationship with her boyfriend.

The trip home after the show can be a little trickier depending on how the show day has gone. Whether she's feeling the thrill of having done very well and is satisfied with her accomplishments or whether she's disappointed at having missed a distance or a lead change that ruined a class, my listening skills at this juncture need to be more fine-tuned than ever. I usually end up serving as her sounding board, helping her celebrate her wins, or helping her work through her own disappointment at what she did poorly or incorrectly. I also try to bolster her confidence by reminding her that tomorrow is another day with more chances to improve her riding. When things don't go as we hope, I want her to know that losing is a part of life and that hard work is an important part of competition.

Teachable moments happen all the time. We may observe how someone treats a groom early in the morning or watch when a family pays a name trainer to stand at the gate at a national horse show. Whether we believe the judging to be fair and good or fair yet difficult, both situations provide great conversation starters about the fairness of life and doing your best. We've observed that drugging seems rampant back in the show tents, and it makes us wonder what price someone will pay to win a competition. What about a situation we've all seen -- when parents blast a trainer at the gate when their rider does not perform well? Or, what about the role of money and financial abundance and how wealth is displayed or flaunted at a show? Being witness to these types of situations gives my daughter and me the opportunity for a frank discussion back at the barn or on the trip home. Last year we went to the National Horse Show in West Palm Beach and had a series of experiences that left us with many conversation starters, especially when she was awarded a reserve that was then taken away a month later.

Communicating our family's values has become an essential priority for my husband and me. We've communicated our thoughts about ethics, sportsmanship, and the value of competition in an effort to help our daughter keep perspective. Think of a typical weekend with all of the situations you observe and conversations you overhear in the show tents, the schooling area, and in front of the show ring. The challenge when witnessing these situations is to take them and turn them into learning experiences for our children. Adult behavior is not always at its best at a horse show. How many of us board in barns where petty gossip and hurtful comments are made?

It is not always easy to hold a conversation with a teen, especially one facing competition. Appropriate timing is essential. Seek out those rare moments of when they're open and ready to listen, as this mindset will make all the difference in the success of the conversation. Age is also a determining factor, as a conversation with a 13-year old is very different than one with a 17-year old. Each child develops and matures at her own pace, so it becomes our job as parents to find age-appropriate ways to communicate with her.

Participating in sports has shown to be a good thing for adolescent girls and boys. Athletic events provide a playing field for learning a number of important lessons like learning to win and lose, managing defeat, working with a team, and the responsibility of hard work. Horse showing with our daughters provides us with the opportunity to transform sports situations into real life lessons.

Copyright (c) 2007 Kathy Keeley

Veteran show mom Kathy Keeley is founder of ShowMom.com, the first online community created especially for horseshow mothers and daughters who want to learn how to successfully navigate the horseshow circuit and maintain a great mother-daughter relationship. Sign up for our free email newsletter, The Savvy Show Mom, at ShowMom.com .



Source: http://www.postarticles.com/Article/How-Showing-Horses-Has-Made-Me-a-Better-Parent/46975

Your Pets Defenses Against Bacteria and Disease

The Skin and Coat System

The skin and coat system is your pet's first line of defense to protect against harmful external bacteria and the elements.

Skin:
Smooth, supple skin is essential as a barrier against invaders. Healthy skin can heal more quickly from scratches and cuts. Skin is also the largest organ of the body and will help eliminate toxins when or if the liver becomes overworked and unable to keep up with demand. Healthy skin also holds the coat in better.

Coat:
The coat offers protection from the elements. Since hairs are often shed, there needs to be continuous replacement. The coat may thicken and shed seasonally to help regulate your pet's body temperature.

Hair Follicles:
Hair follicles, the 'root' of the hair, are constantly working. The cells divide every one to three days, with the protein-based cells pushed upward to form the hair itself. With this rapid growth, the hair needs a constant supply of protein to grow.
Omega 6 and Omega 3 fatty acids are among the nutrients that are very important to your pet's skin and coat. The right amount of high-quality fats and other balanced nutrients help keep skin smooth and supple so it moves with your pet, helps avoid dry skin and promotes a thick, lustrous coat. Protein, amino acids, vitamins and minerals are also key nutrients in promoting healthy skin and coat condition.

The Immune System
The immune system is designed to fight illness, harmful bacteria or other invaders that may attack your pet. It can learn to recognize specific invaders and fight them whenever they are encountered. Natural, raw foods set up and maintain healthy, natural biochemical reactions. These biochemical reactions set up a natural line of defense - a healthy immune system - that fights off bacteria, viruses, and parasites many times a day.
Mucosal:
The lining of the intestine defends against absorbed or ingested invaders. The mucosal lining not only absorbs the nutrients in the food your pet eats, but also filters out harmful bacteria and other invaders, as well as producing antibodies that attack certain disease-causing organisms.

Lymph Nodes:
The lymph nodes filter invading organisms, bacteria and other dangers from the body. They contain lymphocytes, a type of white blood cell that attacks infection, and play a role in developing the antibodies that help give your pet immunity from certain illnesses. There are lymph nodes clustered throughout your pet's body.

Bone Marrow:
The bone marrow, contained in the center of bones, produces white blood cells, one of the body's primary defenses against infection. These cells travel in the bloodstream and attack and destroy invaders. When there is an infection underway, more white blood cells are produced. Antibodies are made of protein, and the amino acids in protein are the raw material used to build white blood cells and components of the immune system. One of the keys to supporting a healthy immune system is an adequate supply of good quality animal protein.

The Digestive System

In addition to delivering nutrients from food to your pet, the digestive system serves as a barrier to internal invaders, like skin does for external invaders. It also produces antibodies and is home to helpful bacteria that perform a variety of crucial roles.

Stomach:
This is the first stop for food and ingested material. The stomach is where food begins to be broken down in preparation for absorption. It is a mixing place for various enzymes and digestive juices.

Intestines:
The intestines are where nutrients, minerals and water are absorbed for use by the body. An effective digestive system also will destroy invading organisms and other undesirable substances.

Liver:
The main function of the liver is to aid in the metabolism of food and to produce important chemicals, such as bile acids that help digest fats. In this way, it helps turn food into usable building blocks and energy for your pet. It also protects the body by acting as a filter of absorbed or ingested toxins, and produces substances that help blood clot.

By restoring your pet to his natural, health-giving diet, you can restore the myriad natural biochemical reactions that give strength to his immune system. This is the "magic" that keeps pets who are fed natural diets free of disease.

Jennifer Lennon has written many articles at TryHealthyPaws.com where you can also find out about a BARF Diet (Bones and Raw Food Diet) for your pet.



Source: http://www.postarticles.com/Article/Your-Pet-s-Defenses-Against-Bacteria-and-Disease/47832

Horse Dentistry From All Ages

There are currently about 25 horse dentistry tool manufacturers in the U. S. So, what does an equine dentist do, and which horses could benefit from their practices? An experienced horse dentist would basically equilibrate a horse's teeth in various ways. A thorough oral examination requires the use of a full-mouth speculum and a mild sedative or relaxant.

Surprisingly, a significant proportion of horses suffer from tooth maladies which can affect the way they take the bit. Have you ever seen a horse smile? Friction can arise between dental practitioners and standard vets, who have very different approaches to dental problems.

A visit from and equine dentist can be as rewarding an experience for the owner as it is for the horse. Dressage, when done well, is seen as like a ballet for horses. At its best dressage is a sport of beauty and is only possible when there is a true partnership with the horse and rider.

The great European riding masters of that period developed a sequential training system that has changed little since then and classical dressage is still considered the basis of trained modern dressage. Due to the formality of dressage, tack is usually black leather, although dark brown is seen from time to time. AWith all this it is perhaps a surprise to discover that all over the globe there are hundreds of minor dressage events. Dressage is undertaken in a 60 meter long, with the width a third of the length arena with letters, A-K-V-E-S-H-C-M-R-B-P-F.

Riders taking part in competitive dressage realise they need to concentrate on the piaffe, passage, half-pass, extended trot, and tempi changes. Grooming not only allows us to give our horses a shiny, short, healthy coat, it also gives us the opportunity to go over our beautiful animals from head to toe

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Source: http://www.pcwriters.com/Article/Horse-Dentistry-From-All-Ages/102197

Why dog's bark

Thousands of years ago, humans began the process of domesticating the dog and shaping what "being a dog" really means. Through careful selection and breeding, an astonishing variety of dog breeds have been created. Desirable traits have been selected for in various breeds that are of a benefit to humans. There are some traits, however, that quickly become undesirable when expressed too frequently. Barking is an example of a natural behaviour that is encouraged in terms of guarding behaviour, but becomes a problem when the behaviour is produced in excess. A recent health insurance investigation revealed that the sound of a continually barking dog was cited as the most disruptive and stress inducing noise for humans.

Why Do Dogs Bark?

Barking, in addition to whining, howling and growling, is a dog's natural means of communication. Barking is characterized by a series of short, sharp sounds, that tend to vary little in tone or pitch. A dog's bark can signify territorial protection, exertion of dominance, or expression of some need. Typically, barking is "a means of communication triggered by a state of excitement." Being a natural trait, barking is not considered a behavioural problem, until it is produced in excess.

Causes of Problem Barking

Problem barking has a variety of origins. Genetics does influence a dog's tendency to bark. Certain breeds belonging to the terrier family are prone to more frequent barking than breeds such as Greyhounds or Basenjis. Generally, however, excess barking can exist in any breed of dog. The key to solving the problem of inappropriate barking is to determine what external stimulus is triggering the behaviour. Improper confinement can be a major cause of problem barkers.

Improper confinement can include leaving a dog alone in a locked room, or in a dog crate (a tool used for housebreaking and other behavioural modifications). Other improper confinements can include restricted tethering outdoors, or even an enclosed yard without proper shelter from the elements. Such confinement can cause frustration in a dog and cause it to bark excessively. Closely associated with improper confinement is lack of exercise as a cause of excess barking. When a dog is not provided with adequate exercise, pent-up energy is released through barking.

Environmental sounds can also trigger barking. These sounds include such things as the barking of other dogs, the sound of passing cars, strange voices, thunder, and mechanical noises such as the ringing of the phone. Noises can initiate barking at different times of the day. A dog may not bark at accustomed sounds during the day, but at night may be incited to a volley of barking, much to the chagrin of the neighbours, by the slightest of noises. Other causes of problem barking can include separation anxiety, or the temperament of the dog: an over-aggressive animal may bark at the smallest provocation. A strongly territorial dog may bark at any stranger, invited or uninvited, entering your property.

Solutions to Excess Barking

Excess barking can be a serious behavioural problem and can mean the termination of the relationship with your dog or the dog itself if left untreated. The following text includes information on how to solve your dog's problem barking as recommended by the veterinary profession.

The first step in solving problem barking, is to determine if your dog is barking in response to inadequate shelter or improper confinement. If this is the case, the dog must be provided with a comfortable amount of space or supplied with a doghouse if outdoor shelter is inadequate. Increasing the amount of exercise given to your dog may also help.

In the event your dog is barking in response to environmental noises, or the barking is simply due to its temperament, behavioural modification methods should be used. These methods can include reconditioning using a verbal reprimand such as "No!", and leash correction. It should be noted however, that you should never yell at your dog, as loud noises may encourage your pet to bark more. Also keep in mind the punishment should be applied while the barking is occurring, in order for your dog to associate the unwanted behaviour with the punishment. Also remember to reward your dog when it stops barking.

Indirect intervention methods can also be applied. These techniques can range from spraying your dog with water while it is barking, to using noise producing devices such as "Dog Stop" or "Barker Breaker," which emit loud or high frequency sounds that interrupt and deter barking. These devices can be controlled by the owner, or triggered by the dog's barking. In the event your dog is resistant to these behavioural modifications, more drastic action can be taken in the form of bark activated shock collars. This device is particularly effective when barking occurs in the owner's absence. Shock collars, however, are recommended only after other control measures have failed. A final resort, when all other behavioural modification methods have been tried, and particularly when the dog's life is in question, is a vocal cordectomy (debarking). This surgical procedure involves removal of all or part of the vocal cords.

The key to solving the problem of excess barking in your dog begins with an understanding of what is causing this behaviour. Once you have determined a cause, you have a greater chance of choosing the most effective solution (e.g., more exercise) or behavioural modification. Modifying such an instinctive and natural behaviour as barking can be difficult, and may require considerable patience, time, and hard work. Solutions, however, are possible, and worth the effort.



Source: http://www.postarticles.com/Article/Why-dog-s-bark/47673

The Secret Of Keeping Parrots

The practice of keeping a parrot as a pet in a cage is a very ancient one, going back hundreds of years, and calls to mind at once the almost legendary figure of the sailor bringing home in its round cage the parrot he has picked up in foreign parts; and this is no doubt how the very first parrots were brought to this country. Where to keep your parrot and what to feed him are the two main factors which are discussed below.

It is a very understandable practice to keep a parrot, for no other birds rival or even approach members of the parrot family in their combination of tameness, beauty, intelligence, and their power to imitate perfectly the human voice. In addition a tame parrot - particularly an African Grey - makes a wonderful and cheerful companion for anyone who has to live alone.

While I myself keep my collection of parrots in pairs in aviaries, I think there can be no doubt that of all birds the larger parrots take most kindly to cage life and, provided they are well cared for and treated with real love and affection by their owner, they seem perfectly happy.

A proof of this is that if such a bird is put out in an aviary, even with another parrot as companion, it is at first liable to mope but will show every sign of joy once it is back in its cage and among its human friends again. I think the reason for this is that parrots are extremely sociable creatures.

The central perch is usually made of some very hard wood, and this is essential as a parrot would soon chew up anything softer. The exercise of its beak is, however, very necessary to its general health, and a considerate owner will not fail to supply a cotton-reel from time to time, or a small bundle of twigs which it can utilize for this purpose.

Parrots enjoy whittling, which in addition to helping to keep their beaks in order gives them something to do. This is very-important for it is partly boredom which leads to feather-plucking in caged parrots. The most important thing of all with a caged parrot is to let it out of its cage for an hour or so at regular intervals - preferably every day. A pet parrot will become extremely attached to its owner provided its affection is returned.

Now as to the feeding of the bird, I give sunflower and a few monkey-nuts, with the addition of a little canary-seed, groats or oats, and hemp. Particular care must be exercised with the latter which, in excess, is over-stimulating and fattening, and can cause heart troubles and feather-plucking.

Given sparingly, however, hemp is one of the most valuable of seeds particularly when birds are rearing young, at which time the amount can be considerably increased. At other times, and particularly in the case of a caged bird, a few grains every day or, better still, every other day, are quite sufficient, and it is better to omit it altogether than to give too much of it.

Far too many parrot owners seem to imagine that a daily supply of seed and water constitutes the sole requirements of their pets. This is quite wrong, for they need other things as well. Chief among these are fruit and green-foods, which can take various forms, but perhaps if the parrot were given its choice it would choose sections of sweet ripe apple and the leaves of spinach beet. These, or other fruits and green-foods, should be given at least twice a week.

As to tidbits, this is rather a moot point, and I can perhaps do best here by referring to my own much-loved and very long-lived Senegal Parrot. She was particularly fond of scraps from the table such as new potatoes, boiled white fish and scrambled egg - all of course given only occasionally and in very small quantities. Meat and savories, etc., should definitely not be given.

With these simple suggestions in mind, you will be able to enjoy your pet for many years to come. No more delightful companion can be found.

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Source: http://www.pcwriters.com/Article/The-Secret-Of-Keeping-Parrots/102169

Pet Stroller Website Makes available Delightful Option Instead Of Wheelchairs for Pets

Older, disabled household pets traditionally need to get around in pet wheelchairs, and despite the fact those chairs could be quite healthful to the pet as far as exercise, additional alternatives can be utilized, largely if the animal becomes fatigued, or is just briefly not able to use a pet wheelchair. This is where disabled and older pets will benefit from a pet stroller. In fact, a pet stroller may truly be highly useful, to the animal, along with its owner.

For heavier pets, Pet Stroller Mart has a Three Wheel Pet Stroller, additionally with a Four Wheel Pet Stroller. These durable strollers are built with bigger wheels so that you can efficiently carry your pet over any rough terrain. The pet strollers also come with water resistant trays for effortless cleaning and maintenance, and are made with waterproof Denier nylon, so that your pet stroller can stay with you for a very long time. Front wheel shock absorbers help take on unpredictable terrain and bumps, and can help sustain the quality and strength of your pet stroller. These pet strollers also collapses easily for storage or transportation.

To illustrate, if you have a couple of pets that you need to move at the same time, http://www.petstrollermart.com has a fabulous Double Decker stroller than has the ability to efficiently carry both of your pets at the same time. You won't need to bring carriers either because both compartments detach easily and can become carriers themselves. Additionally, the cart folds easily for carrying or storage.

Pet Strollers have only recently begun to be popular, but few pet shops offer this kind of products, and shops that do, sell them at a high price. Pet Stroller Mart has started providing pet strollers that will come in a great variety of styles, colors and sizes that are going to fit several pets, and habitats. And not to mention budget. If you reside in the country or the city , Pet Stroller Mart pet strollers are built to efficiently handle all environments, and simply make it nearly effortless to carry animals where you want them to be.

For animals that are less than 25 pounds, Pet Stroller Mart has a unique range of unusual pet strollers so that both you and your pet can get where you need to be quickly. You can get a stroller that has a more classic carriage, or pick a polished pet stroller or a elegant pet stroller. While these pet strollers are created for smaller animals, they are still constructed with the same reinforced superiority of Pet Stroller Mart's various other offerings for larger animals.

The adjustablitiy of pet strollers carried by Pet Stroller Mart is the feature that truly allows their products to stand out from the rest. As an example, they even stock a unique three in one pet stroller that basically works as a pet carrier, pet stroller, and even a pet car seat. And this is one of the key benefits of Getting a pet stroller from Pet Stroller Mart, they can save you money because you won't need to purchase other pets storage items. All Pet strollers from Pet Stroller Mart are easy to maintain and clean, and are built for easy collapse and storage. The poly/cotton mesh fabric provides additional protection and ventilation for your pet's transport. So check out http://www.PetStrollerMart.com today to access their prices and fantastic selection of pet strollers. Shipping and handling is included with all items.

Pet Stroller Mart from Pet Stroller Mart offer the opportunity to bring your family pet with you everywhere your travels take you. Pet Strollers from PetStrollerMart are perfect for disabled or weak pets, puppies, small dogs, cats, small animals, and older pets with arthritic joints or hip problems.



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Source: http://www.rightarticle.com/Article/Pet-Stroller-Website-Makes-available-Delightful-Option-Instead-Of-Wheelchairs-for-Pets/99477

Saturday, February 23, 2008

Multiple Uses of Goat

Goats are truly useful both when they are alive and even after death, offering meat and milk as the skin offering hide. A charity is involved in providing goats to poor people in Africa. The main advantage was that goats are easy to manage than cattle and have multiple uses.

Meat

The goat meat is called chevon, which is similar to that of lamb meat. However some believe that it has a similar taste to veal or venison, it just depends on the age and condition of goat. It could further be prepared in a variety of ways with stewed, baked, grilled, barbecued, minced, canned, or even prepared into sausage. Goat jerky is another well-liked variety. In
India, the rice=preparation of Biryani uses goat meat to produce rich taste in rice. In terms of nutrition, it is lower in fat and cholesterol. It carries more minerals and lowers the total saturated fats than any other meat.

Other parts of the goat including organs are actually evenly edible. Special delicacies comprise the brain and liver. The head and legs of the goat are smoked and used to make exclusive spicy dishes and soup.

Milk and cheese

Goats' milk is more easily digested by humans and is mostly recommended for infants and people who face difficulty with cows' milk. The cured prepared with goats milk is much smaller and more digestible. Moreover it is in nature homogenized as it lacks the protein agglutinin.

Goat's milk when handled properly, from clean and healthy goats, in a best sanitary manner and cooled as soon as possible, the flavor is unremarkable and inoffensive. Further, it is required to separate the strong smelling buck from the dairy does, as his scent would rub off on them and would taint the milk. Goats' milk is then used to make well-liked cheeses such as Rocamadour and feta; anyhow it could be used to make other kinds of cheese.

Fiber

Cashmere goats produce best fiber, Cashmere wool is one of the best in the world. Cashmere fiber is extremely fine and soft, and grows under the guard hairs. Cashmere goat has been particularly bred to create a much higher amount of it with fewer guard hairs.

The Angora breed produces lengthy, curling, shiny locks of mohair. The locks continually grow and could be four inches or even more in length. Goats do not have to be slaying to crop the wool that is instead sheared in the case of Angora goats, or combed, in the case of Cashmere goats.

In South Asia, Cashmere is known as pashmina (Persian pashmina = fine wool) and these goats are known as pashmina goats. Since these goats in fact belong to the upper Kashmir and Laddakh region, their wool came to be called as cashmere in the West. The pashmina shawls of Kashmir with their complex
embroidery are very famous.

Skin

Goat skin used today to create gloves, boots, and other products, which require a soft hide. Kid gloves are trendy in Victorian times, and are still made today. The Black Bengal breed, local to Bangladesh, offers high-quality skin. The skin also used in Indonesia as rugs and local instrumental drum skin named bedug.

Other parts of the goat are also evenly useful. For instance, the intestine is used to create catgut that is still the favored material for internal human sutures. The horn of the goat that signifies wellbeing (Cornucopia) in too used to make spoons etc.



Source: http://www.postarticles.com/Article/Multiple-Uses-of-Goat/48490

The Mastiff - Calm, Loyal and Good-Natured Giant

Gentle Giants

If there was ever a gentle giant, this dog is it. The Mastiff loves everybody and everything, especially his family. They are an especially good dog with children and make an excellent dog breed for a family.

That is a bit surprising since they were originally bred as war dogs. Outfitted with saddles that carried live coal, the dogs were trained to run underneath horses so the enemy knights would fall to the ground. Once a knight was on the ground he was helpless.

At other times the Mastiff was pitted against gladiators, lions, bears and bulls. This is a far cry from the gentle and low-key dog of today who is happiest when with his family.

They are extremely loyal and should be allowed to live indoors where they can fulfill their role of devoted guardian. They only require enough room to stretch out comfortably.

These large dogs are not very active and do not need much exercise. Unlike the sporting dogs that will run and run for miles, the Mastiff is happy to just lie around the house. One walk each day or a good game is enough exercise for them.

An Ancient Dog Breed

The Mastiff originated in Great Brittain. They come from the mastiff family which is one of the oldest and most influential dog breeds. Like the mastiff family, the Mastiff is also an ancient breed that has been around since before the time of Caesar.

In the years leading up to World War II they almost disappeared in Great Brittan. Thankfully, they were a popular dog in the United States and so the breed did not completely die out. Since then their numbers have increased, and today it is the 33rd most popular dog in America.

Special Needs of a Large Dog Breed

The only drawbacks to this dog are the amount of food they require and the space they need indoors. They are not active indoors, but like to stretch out in comfort. They require very little grooming, are generally very healthy, and very easy to train.

When acquiring a Mastiff it is important to gain his respect at an early age. If the dog learns to listen and follow orders when he is a puppy, he will be very happy to obey when he is 230 pounds.

Males can reach up to 230 pounds and females can reach 170 pounds. They are a little shorter than the Irish Wolfhound but heavier. As a result of their large size it is especially important that puppies are bought from reputable breeders that do not feed puppies anything that will speed their growth. This can lead to health problems later on.

How to Choose a Good Puppy

Other things to beware of when looking for a Mastiff for a pet is to make sure the mother is older than 22 months and younger than seven years, and that the prospective owners check the parents' hip and elbow certificates to verify that they do have hip or elbow dysplasia.

Reputable breeds will be happy to comply with any questions the buyers ask. Remember that people who really care about the breed are not breeding just for the money, but are also breeding for a pure and exceptional line.

Anyone who purchases a Mastiff will have a wonderful companion for as long as nine to eleven years. The Mastiff is definitely an excellent dog for families to consider.



Source: http://www.postarticles.com/Article/The-Mastiff---Calm--Loyal-and-Good-Natured-Giant/48838

Horse Insurance Specialties And Advice

Do you have more than one animal and fear the spread of an illnesses or infections. Like most types of policy, pet insurance is a tradeoff between cost and cover. The basic coverage of the embrace pet insurance policy is already quite comprehensive that even if you do not opt for additional services, your pet is already adequately protected.

One of the really nice features about the AKC pet healthcare coverage is the sixty-day complimentary trail period. Pet Health is affiliated with Pet Care Products. The range of coverage varies as does the deductible and reimbursement percentage.

Something else to consider, is whether you will get a discount for insuring more than one pet. Usually, the information given aims to teach animal owners how to monitor the health of their animals.

The cost of vet care can come across as a little unreasonable for routine visits, and even more so when it is due to an unexpected visit. Few policies have a 'voluntary excess' charge, which entails an x amount of dollars each year will be deducted from your premiums. When comparing your pet insurance coverage options you also need to look at things such as deductibles, copy's, and lifetime limits. Neither will you find cover for elective treatments, such as neutering and identity chipping. Others will only allow you to claim once for each condition. Usually, the information given aims to teach animal owners how to monitor the health of their animals.

The number of insurance companies offering auto insurance through the Internet has exploded over the last few years. The business plan should include the ways by which the performance of the business could be monitored and evaluated. A good California pet health insurance plan should cover your pet for costs incurred in treating them for major illnesses as well as other health care.

It depends on the age and breed of your animal, but you can find pet insurance premiums as low as $10-$15 per month. This is where cat pet insurance comes in handy and this is reason why a cat pet owner should realize the need for an insurance plan. Being a responsible pet owner means visiting your veterinarian on a regular basis for your pet's routine checkups and vaccinations. If the accident or illness is severe enough, your pet may need to see a specialist. It also has a special plan for cancers treatment for pets called VPI Cancer Rider.

I'm not saying that having pet insurance will get you out of every hole. Trying to decide if you should get insurance on your pet? If so, do you have pet insurance? If not, you may well want to read on if you want to save yourself millions of pounds If you are a risk-taker when it comes to insurance and would be okay covering any health-related costs yourself, you shouldn't bother getting pet insurance. In the unfortunate instance that your pet is never returned, the pet insurance company will offer you anything from £500 to £1500 for the value of your pet, usually the only condition in your policy will be evidence that your pet has been missing for thirty to ninety days. There are various types of pet insurance available, including third party liability coverage, which will protect you if you pet harms, destroys property, causes an accident, and so forth. In addition, pet insurance plans also allow you to choose the veterinarian you would like your animal to see.

You might believe now that if veterinary treatment is too expensive you'd rather have your pet put down instead of taking out pet insurance but will you feel the same way once you've become attached? To prepare for such an occurrence, many owners are taking out insurance for their pet, to offset any costs that may be incurred and to ensure their pet gets the best treatment. Included in many pet insurance policies are the covering costs of advertising in your area and local newspapers for your lost pets safe return. When comparing pet insurance plans, don't look at the monthly premium alone.

Just like the different coverage's on your life insurance policy, pet insurance plans are the same. Also consider the deductible you are required to pay before the pet insurance kicks in. Interestingly enough, pet health insurance has changed in the past couple of years. The best pet health care insurance companies that offer services online are pet plan.

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Source: http://www.pcwriters.com/Article/Horse-Insurance-Specialties-And-Advice/102200

Natural Treatments For Dog Itching And Cat Bladder Infections

The skin: why your dog is itching

The skin is the largest organ of your pets' body and reflective of what is going on in the body. Regularly brush your pet looking for fleas, lice or ticks. The hair coat should be soft and shiny.

If you are seeing areas of excessive shedding in your pet then you may be dealing with certain skin conditions such as mange, ringworm, hypothyroid disease or allergies; treatments for these are discussed in detail in my book, Veterinary Secrets Revealed.

If your pet has areas of hair missing around the face that are not itchy, then he may have a type of mange called demodex. This small parasite shows up in pets with depressed immune systems.

One very safe effective treatment is Vitamin E given at 400IU per 40lbs once daily for 3-4 weeks.

If your pet has an excess of flaky skin (dandruff), then she may be in need of a essential fatty acid supplement. Flax is the best source for dogs at a dose of 1 teaspoon per cup of dog food. For cats use the liquid supplement (such as fish oil).

Take note of any palpable lumps or bumps.

Lipomas (benign fatty tumors) commonly occur on the chest wall. If your dog has a soft moveable lump on her chest, then it is probably a fatty tumor.

Sebaceous cysts are another common lump; they can often be distinguished by squeezing out a cheesy substance. They are also very soft. Lumps and bumps become more prevalent as your pet ages and their immune system weakens.

The most important thing in helping your pet is having them on a premium quality diet and supplementing with additional antioxidants. The ones I suggest using are Vitamin E, Vitamin C and specific flavonoids.

Any lumps that are firm, rapidly growing, not easily moveable should be considered serious and examined by your veterinarian.

Allergies are one of the most common reasons that I see pets. There are a huge number of allergens. The 3 main classes are Food, Fleas and Environmental. The most common signs are excessive scratching, paw and anal licking, hair shedding and excess dandruff.

If you suspect that your pet has an allergy, then the first 2 things that I suggest are to eliminate external parasites as a cause, and to feed a hypo-allergenic diet for 4-6 weeks (there are many available).

Some very helpful at home remedies that I often use are:

TO THE BATH. An oatmeal shampoo with cool water will ease the itchiest skin. Leave the shampoo on for 10 minutes then rinse well. With the most severe allergies, bathe your pet twice weekly.

SOOTHE IT TOPICALLY. Calendula ointment is a herbal medication that has been successfully used to relieve the itch. Apply a thin coat twice daily to affected areas.

THE SUPPLEMENT CONNECTION. Fatty Acid supplements are very helpful in decreasing the level of inflammation. Omega 3 fatty acids are most important. A great, inexpensive source is ground Flax Seeds; I give 1 tsp per cup of dog food. Cats are unable to metabolize Flax, so I only recommend the liquid supplement for them. Other sources include fish oil, primrose oil and specific veterinary supplements.

Evaluation of the Genital and Urinary system - cat bladder infections...

In male dogs look at the sheath of the penis to ensure there is no abnormal discharge. This is more common in intact males, so an easy remedy is to have your dog neutered. In female dogs examine the vulva. A common problem is skin fold infections.

These can be treated by washing the skin folds twice daily with an antiseptic such as Hibitane and applying a soothing cream such as Aloe Vera.

The urinary system is more difficult to evaluate, but there are some things you can do at home. Signs of a bladder infection are frequently urination, which may have blood and may be painful.

There are a number of home remedies for bladder infections, the most effective are Vitamin C and Cranberry juice. The Vitamin C acidifies the urine making it more difficult for the bacteria to grow, as well as dissolving the more common type of crystal, struvite. The Vitamin C dose is 250mg per 20lbs daily.

If you have a male cat, then it is imperative to determine that he is not completely blocked up. Using your thumb and other four fingers, palpate the entire lower abdomen. An obstructed bladder will feel like a firm distended balloon. If your male cat has this condition, it is an emergency and he must be treated by a veterinarian!

I discuss ways to prevent your cat from getting obstructed in my book; the most important thing is to feed a diet higher in moisture. This is accomplished with canned food. Then depending on the type of crystal he has it is important to either acidify the urine (with struvite) or make the urine more alkaline (oxalate crystals). An easy way to acidify the urine is to raise the meat protein level. Making the urine more alkaline involves decreasing the protein level and adding a supplement, potassium citrate.

If some of these tips and treatments have helped you, then get your copy of my book, Veterinary Secrets Revealed, today.

Dr. Andrew Jones, a practicing Veterinarian, has a special interest in alternative, natural remedies for pets. His book, Veterinary Secrets Revealed, a holistic pet health manual, is at: www.veterinarysecretsrevealed.com.



Source: http://www.postarticles.com/Article/Natural-Treatments-For-Dog-Itching-And-Cat-Bladder-Infections/48831

Different Ways Of Transporting Your Pet Safely Posted By :

There are many ways to transport your pet. Depending on the reason for the transportation, it can be a quick and easy trip for both of you, or it can be a lengthy excursion that needs detailed planning in order to work for both of you. You will want to be sure to take any necessary steps to ensure the safety and comfort of your pet during any traveling.

For making those short trips by vehicle, you have various options to choose from. Some large dogs that are typically put in the back of a truck can still be stationed there safely with a manufactured harness built especially for keeping them safe in the back box of a truck while the vehicle is in motion. For smaller animals such as smaller dogs or cats, there are seat belts that can be adapted for the inside of your vehicle in order to keep them stationary and safe.

If you have a pet that does not stay stationary during travel or might harm themselves or others around them if being secured, you may want to invest in a carrier. By using a carrier they are free to relax inside during their short venture and are still able to see what is happening around them without posing a threat in a moving vehicle. There are many styles and sizes of carriers to choose from, so you have many options when it comes to colour, design or even ease of mobility.

For those larger trips in some countries there are pet transportation services. These companies do all the necessary work in order to prepare and transport your pet safely and efficiently to their destination. This type of company can be helpful if you have never transported a pet before and are unaware of the regulations for air or train travel for a live animal. They will have completed everything for you so you can relax knowing that your pet is in good hands and will see you at your final destination.

If it is a bird that you are transporting, you would be fine to use a small cage or even a cardboard box with air holes through it, but you would need a type of harness in order to eliminate the possibility of your bird flying away in fright once it has been released at the destination. There are a variety of harnesses or suits to fit birds of all sizes for this very reason. Your pet is part of your family and you will want to protect them from any dangers on the outside.

No matter which option you choose for your type of travels you will want to make sure that you are not sedating your pet. According to veterinarians, sedation can be harmful, and sometimes even fatal, for animals during travel. Do not feel that sedating them will make their trip, or yours, any easier. A pet that is well traveled with his owner will become accustomed to it and be a great companion on the road as well as at home.


Source: http://www.reprint-content.com/Article/Different-Ways-Of-Transporting-Your-Pet-Safely/158281

Friday, February 22, 2008

Salt water aquarium packages

When potential aquarists start looking into the possibility of starting their own salt water aquarium there is one thing which is often quite daunting - equipment.

There is a lot more equipment which is required in a salt water aquarium, especially a salt water reef aquarium.

Equipment requirements can be but not limited to :

* Heaters
* Water movement devices
* Lighting
* Protein skimmers
* Calcium reactors
* Filtration devices
* Auto top up devices
* Auto feeders
* Nitrate reducers
* Phosphate reducers
* Stirrers
* Reverse osmosis units
* Computer controllers
* And more.......

With all the information you need to know to start a successful salt water aquarium then only thing you realistically need to know about equipment is what they are for, what is a definitive requirement and what is not.

Of course all equipment is made by various manufacturers and this post cannot go into the detail as to which is the better manufacturer to use and why.

For the potential salt water aquarist who is not really that interested in technology and let's face it not everyone is (except me!) and just wants a salt water aquarium in their home there is another way.

There are salt water aquarium packages which you can purchase. These salt water aquarium packages come in various shapes and sizes and combine everything you need in one handy take home package. The only thing which you will need with one of these packages is the water, salt, filtration and livestock itself. There are some salt water aquarium packages which even come with a reverse osmosis unit, some salt and man made filtration or natural filtration.

With these salt water aquarium packages you really do have everything you need. You simply purchase one, take it home (or have it delivered) set it up, add the salt water, go through the nitrogen cycle and then slowly stock it - easy eh!

The majority of these salt water aquarium packages keep the majority of the equipment either underneath the aquarium in the sump or in a specially designed rear panel which hides all the required equipment from view. The only trouble with the latter is that they do tend to remove a bit of the width of the tank - normally 3-4 inches. Personally if I was going to purchase a package like this I would opt for the sump one, but it really is up to personal choice.

Of course you do not need to go for a predetermined package deal you can approach your local fish shop and ask them to design you a salt water aquarium package. You will be surprised how many shops will accommodate this.

In closing if you are not interested in technology and purely want a salt water aquarium to look after and enjoy but do not want the hassle of purchasing all the required equipment separately then these salt water aquarium packages are certainly worth further investigation.

Peter Cunningham and John Cunningham combined have been keeping salt water aquarium's for nearly 35 years. Their website Salt Water Aquarium provides a wealth of resources for learning how to start and maintain salt water aquariums.



Source: http://www.postarticles.com/Article/Salt-water-aquarium-packages/50679

7 Reasons to Start Brushing Your Pet's Teeth Today

From the makers of the KEEP IT CLEAN™ Pet Dental Kit

If the increasing number of teeth whitening, cleaning, flossing and other dental products available these days is any indication, we Americans are obsessed with the great white smile. There are few of us who haven't at least considered, if not actually tried, those little whitening strips, or even a round of laser treatments to get our pearly whites a notch pearlier.

So it seems only natural that we would turn our attention to our pet's dental health, too. Given that the majority of pet owners consider Fido or Socks a family member or child , it's not surprising that the growth of oral health care products for pets is on the rise, nearly quadrupling from 2000 to 2004 . More and more of us are brushing our pets' teeth at home in an effort to prevent periodontal disease (yes, cats and dogs can get it, too, with much the same outcome as humans) and help them live healthier and longer lives.

Among the items now available is the KEEP IT CLEAN™ Pet Dental Kit featuring an ergonomic toothbrush and filet mignon-flavored toothpaste inside a plastic case designed to make brushing a pet's teeth easier. With National Pet Week coming up May 6-12, we've rounded up some reasons why you should BOTH be brushing!

1) Brushing your pet's teeth regularly can extend his life by up to three years.
According to the American Veterinary Dental Society, more than 80 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats develop periodontal disease by the age of three. "Periodontal disease is a serious condition that causes gingivitis, loss of teeth, pain in the mouth and possibly even serious infections in the internal organs," says Dr. David Steele, a veterinarian with Advanced Animal Care in Mt. Pleasant, S.C.

2) Brushing really does help eliminate "doggie breath"!
Does your dog's breath knock you over when you walk in the door? You're not alone! Most often, bad breath is caused by dental or periodontal disease, and brushing regularly can help prevent and correct this. The KEEP IT CLEAN™ Pet Dental Kit comes with filet mignon flavored toothpaste, which most pets love and which makes for better smelling breath.

3) Brushing at home reduces the chance your pet will have to be anesthetized to have his teeth cleaned.
Not only is there a slight health risk in having your pet anesthetized for a complete cleaning by your vet, these procedures can be costly. "By brushing your pet's teeth on a daily basis, we may be able to help reduce and perhaps even eliminate the need for having your pet anesthetized by your veterinarian for a more thorough cleaning," says Dr. Steele.

4) Keeping your pet's teeth clean means matching white smiles for you AND your pet.
You know what they say about owners looking like their pets!

5) Brushing equals bonding.
Though at first your pet may seem uncomfortable and you may feel awkward with brushing, you will both grow to enjoy the additional time spent together. There's nothing your pet likes more than time alone with you.

6) It's easy.
"While to some folks brushing your dog's or cat's teeth may be a daunting task, it doesn't really need to be," says Dr. Steele. "A product like the KEEP IT CLEAN™ Pet Dental Kit gives you everything you need at your fingertips to take care of brushing your pet's teeth." With everything in a convenient case, it keeps you from searching all over the house for the right brush and paste and also makes sure your toothbrush doesn't get mixed up with Fido's (yuck!).

7) Your pet's smile will outshine all the other pets in the neighborhood.
Maybe your neighbor has a better car, but what does that matter when their pet has yellow teeth? Shine on Socks!

While brushing a pet's teeth is a great idea for many reasons, be sure to check in with your veterinarian before beginning any dental care regimen.

For more information on pet dental health and a free downloadable video demonstrating how to brush a dog's or cat's teeth, please visit www.keepitcleanusa.com.

Keep It Clean is a company dedicated to promoting oral health in both pets and people. Visit www.keepitcleanusa.com for more information.



Source: http://www.postarticles.com/Article/7-Reasons-to-Start-Brushing-Your-Pet-s-Teeth-Today/52873

Pet Food: What is the best food for your dog or cat?

The Pet Food Recall of 2007 has brought an enormous amount of attention to pet food. With tens of thousands of pets affected by the recall and with the death of several thousand pets from tainted food (refer to the PetConnection Database), it is not at all surprising that we have questions. The surprising thing is that it's taken us all so long to ask these questions.

What have we been feeding our pets all these years? We've all, including Veterinarians like myself, trusted the pet food companies completely. We believed they have always held our pets - and our - best interests to heart. But in the case of the large multinational pet food companies, apparently not.

What we've been feeding has obviously not been what's best for our pets. What we're seen is shorter life spans, more disease, and more cancer - not healthier pets. While genetics do play a role, our pets are just like us. Garbage in... you know the result.

Pet food company ethics aside, the ultimate question that needs to be answered is this: what is the best food that we can feed our pets? Should we feed home diets, or are there companies that we can still trust? And what about raw food home diets?

The quick, simple answer, regardless of what you choose to do, is this: be informed. Be an informed, educated pet owner, and know what you are feeding your pet. You are your pet's guardian. You know your pet better than anyone else, including your veterinarian. Your pet's health is ultimately your responsibility - and that definitely includes what you feed your pet.

If you feed home diets, you'll clearly know the ingredients, and can find the ultimate sources of the foods you buy. If you feed prepared food (kibble or canned), make sure you know what really goes in that food. Make sure you know the company very well - that they have trustworthy sources for their ingredients, and that they can prove it.

The other consideration, and I am hearing this quite a lot lately, is simplicity and convenience. The main reason prepared pet food became popular in the first place was because of convenience. Many of the dog and cat home diets you see tend to be quite complicated, and this scares many pet owners away.

I also hear many pet owners voicing concerns about home diets, wanting to ensure that they are 'nutritionally balanced'. And while this is a consideration, the truth is that it's not difficult to attain.

And again, what about raw food diets? Raw food and all of the apparent concerns (founded or unfounded) are definitely the subject of another article entirely, although it is definitely something I do recommend to some degree. So where does this leave us?

Ideally, I would recommend a switch to home diets, whether raw or cooked. You have the most control (again, in as much as we trust our own food sources) over the ingredients. You see, every day, exactly what you are feeding your pets.

However, the ideal is not always the most practical for many pet owners. There is also a consideration of the transition from completely packaged kibble to home food preparation. Many pet owners are unsure of how to prepare the foods properly, especially when dealing with raw food.

A great way to start, and this is what I am currently doing, is to feed a combination of home diets and packaged kibble. Again, make sure that you trust the company that produces the packaged food - do your own research! But I have found that this works well for most pet owners. Start with a home diet that you are comfortable with and feed it once or twice per week, and go from there. For my own pets, I feed one home cooked diet and one prepared, pre-frozen raw food diet. My dog and cat both love their new diets and are responding very well.

The other benefit of doing a combination is that you are providing a varied diet, something I definitely recommend now. There is not one food - packaged or otherwise - that is going to be perfect for all pets. By varying the diet you will make up for any nutritional imbalances your pet may experience from one particular diet or another.

For home diets, I have several available on my site, "Dr. Andrew Jones' Inner Circle", theonlinevet - please see the link in my bio. I've also prepared a list of pet food companies that I feel are trustworthy. In addition, I'm in the process of writing a book on pet food that will take on all of the subjects in this article, and provide many home diets and recommendations. Please visit my sites below to sign up for my newsletter if you would like to be notified when the book is available.

Being an informed pet owner includes not only diet, but health in general. I have an e-book and complete home study course on just that - visit Veterinary Secrets Revealed for more information.

To your pet's good health...



Source: http://www.postarticles.com/Article/Pet-Food--What-is-the-best-food-for-your-dog-or-cat-/59409

Does My Dog Have Ear Mites?

There is a parasite that feast on the epidermal waste of dogs and cats alike. They are earmites. Do you have dogs in your home, or do you take care of dogs for others? Then you should be aware of the signs of these pests.

Most of the time they are large enough to be seen with the unaided eye. With a magnifying glass, you could see them easily. You may possibly notice that your dog has been scratching at his ears often, or is behaving strangely. Your dog could develop a serious yeast infection. This can happen if he scratches, but sometimes it happens even if he doesn't.

A brownish discharge around your dog's ears can alert you to these dog ear mites. Mites stimulate the production of ear wax in your dog's ear, so if you notice a lot of build up, you may want to check things out.

If you want to see for sure if your dog has ear mites, get a cotton swab and very gently wipe up some of the wax in your dog's ear. Examine this wax under a magnifying glass and you can easily tell if there are mites living in your dog's ear.

If you see that your dog has ear mites, it is very important to get him treated right away. Besides the fact that they can really make your dog positively miserable, they are very dangerous and can cause your dog's ear drum to rupture and cause seizures and even death.

As adults, they are quite mobile and can easily spread from one animal to the other. If your dog has them, your other pets may have them too. Be sure that you inspect your other animals for the signs of ear mites too.

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Source: http://www.pcwriters.com/Article/Does-My-Dog-Have-Ear-Mites-/102376

Take your goat's temperature

Sometimes your goat may not behave normally, in such cases the first thing you need to do is to take its temperature as that is the first thing your vet may ask you when you call for a treatment. Even if your goat is not running of a high or low temperature, this would give a clue to your vet as to what the actual problem could be. The normal temperature of a Boer Goat is 101°F to 103°F in the winter, spring, and even during fall. It is usual that your goat may have been basking in the hot sun all day and having 104°F temperature, anyhow it needs to drop rapidly once the goat gets out of the sunlight.

Taking a goat's temperature is same as taking a temperature of human baby body. You can use both digital and traditional glass thermometers, which may range from $3 to $6. The glass thermometers have a comfort loop in the external end for attaching a string. You need to be careful while using it because it has more chances of breaking it. For baby Boer goats, the most comfortable position is to just lay them across your lap. Do not force the thermometer into a goat, it need to slide easily when lubricated. Lubricating the probe end with oil or petroleum jelly would help ease insertion into the rectum. The position of thermometer needs to be inserted to half its length and hold it in the place for a minimum of two minutes. Digital thermometers would give you an alarm when it is through.

For larger kids, it's good to have somebody else holding the Boer goat in a standing or reclined position as you can take its temperature. For adult Boer goats, particularly ones those are not very tame, it might be easier to secure them with a lead or collar and rope to a gatepost, you might even need somebody's help to steady them until you insert the thermometer and obtain its reading. If in case your Boer goat's temperature is very high, your vet might prescribe the injectable product Banamine to lessen the fever and pain. For baby Boer goats it is best to crush baby aspirin into a powder and mix with a little amount of water. This helps to lessen the choking factor of a dry pill. Its one best thing to fight with a high temperature, but it's essential that you find out the reason for fever. A familiar cause of very high temperatures is respiratory infections (sometimes pneumonia). If you desire to save your goat, you need to treat both the temperature and the infection. Some antibiotics are very much accessible across-the-counter's goat supply stores - the most frequently used products are oxytetracyline and penicillin. Some causes of infection need to be treated with more costly prescription antibiotics such as Nuflor or Naxel. It's best to ask your vet for the right product and amount of dosage rather than just to experiment with over-the-counter products. We cannot complete this article without mentioning two more things about goat's temperature. First is that the high fevers lead to dehydration. It's significant to manage electrolytes to keep the goat hydrated. Second, a Boer goat kid with high fever need to be taken off milk until the fever is cure, till then keeps your goat hydrated with electrolytes. Electrolytes are significant for organ and muscle function, blood flow, and the removal of fluid waste.

Caution

A thermometer needs to be cleaned properly with an alcohol wipe after each use and secured it in its case. Do not use a dirty thermometer - even if several goats look to be suffering from the same sort of problem. Don't make the error of inserting an unclean rectal thermometer into a doe's vagina. Thermometers need to be stored at room temperature. Glass thermometers should to be "shaken down" before and after each use. Digital thermometers need to be rearranged according to the manufacturer's instructions.



Source: http://www.postarticles.com/Article/Take-your-goat-s-temperature/58209

Thursday, February 21, 2008

How To Acclimitise New Corals And Fish Correctly

It always amazes me how many people I see or talk to who purchase a marine animal, take it home, open the bag and pour it into their aquarium. I can never understand why some people do not acclimitise their purchases properly, it could be laziness, lack of knowledge, impatience etc but one thing is for certain life is on the line here so it must be done correctly.

The purpose of acclimatisation is simple - the water that the animal is packaged in may have a different temperature, pH and salinity than that of your aquarium. Aquatic life (especially corals and invertebrates) are very sensitive to minor changes in water parameters therefore acclimatisation is a definate requirement for success.

There are two ways which are recommended to acclimatise your new purchase to your aquarium. Neither of these should be rushed and both should be performed with the aquarium lights off. The lights should also remain off for a further 6 to 12 hours after the animal has been introduced to the quarantine tank, or the main display tank, whichever you are using.

The Drip Method

The drip method of acclimatisation is normally used for more sensitive inhabitants, however more and more fish keepers are using this method for all livestock.

Before you commence with this method ensure that the lights on your aquarium are turned off. Also ensure that the lights in the room where you will be unpacking the fish are also turned down to a minimum. Bright lights will cause excessive stress to the fish.

Float the bag whilst it is still sealed in the aquarium for a minimum of 15 minutes. Do not open the bag at this stage. This allows the water in the bag to slowly adjust to the temperature of your aquarium.

Remove the bag from the aquarium and very carefully empty the contents of the bag into a marine safe receptacle (do not use too big a receptacle). Ensure that the animal is fully submerged. If the animal is an invertebrate do not allow it to come into contact with the air - they must remain submerged at all times.

You will need to use some airline so that you can set up a drip line from your main aquarium to the receptacle.

In your aquarium secure the airline tubing so that it cannot fall out. On the other end (the end which is in the receptacle) add an airline control valve (this will allow you to regulate the flow of water).

With the tubing in your aquarium submerged and the other end in the bucket start the siphon by gently sucking on the airline tube. This will start the siphon and water will start to pass from your main aquarium to the bucket. As soon as water begins to flow adjust the valve so that you are getting between 2 to 5 drops per second.

Now wait until the water in the receptacle doubles the initial amount, pause the siphon using the control valve, discard half of the water from the receptacle and start the siphon again using the control valve.

Wait until the water doubles again and then stop or break the siphon. You are now ready to introduce your animal to the aquarium.

If the animal is a fish then capture the fish using a proper aquatic net and release into the aquarium.

If the animal is a coral then you can simply lift it out of the receptacle and place it into the aquarium.

If the animal is an invertebrate then you will need to capture it under water and keep it under water until it is introduced into the aquarium. Try to retain as little as possible of the receptacle water when doing the transfer.

Discard the water from the receptacle - never introduce the water into your aquarium (apart from that necessary for invertebrates).

Leave the aquarium lights off for at least 6 - 12 hours after the introduction.

The Floating Bag Method

Before you commence ensure that the lights on your aquarium are turned off. Also ensure that the lights in the room where you will be unpacking the animal are turned down to a minimum. Bright lights will cause excessive stress to the animal.

Float the bag whilst it is still sealed in the aquarium for a minimum of 15 minutes. Do not open the bag at this stage. This allows the water in the bag to slowly adjust to the temperature of your aquarium.

Once a minimum of 15 minutes has passed open the bag as near to the top as possible and either attach this to the side of the aquarium, or create an air pocket in the top of the bag so that the bag will float.

Once the bag is open add half an egg cup of your aquarium water to the bag and wait 5 to 10 minutes.

After 5 to 10 minutes again add half an egg cup of your aquarium water to the bag and wait another 5 to 10 minutes.

Continue with this process until the bag is full.

Once the bag is full remove the bag from the water and discard at least half of the water from the bag.

Re-float the bag in the water and repeat the steps of adding half an egg cup of your aquarium water to the bag again until the bag is full (Remember to wait 5 to 10 minutes between each water addition)

Once the bag is full capture the fish using a proper aquatic net and release into the aquarium. Corals can be removed from the bag and placed in the aquarium. When some corals are touched they could produce a great deal of slime - this is nothing to worry about and is perfectly normal. However do not introduce any of the water into the aquarium. Invertebrates need to be released into the aquarium under the water. You should never allow them to be out of the water in air. To release invertebrates lower the bag into the aquarium and tease the animal out of the bag. Some of the water will escape into the aquarium, however attempt to keep this to a minimum.

Discard the water in the shipping bag - never introduce the water from the shipping bag into your aquarium.

Leave the aquarium lights off for at least 6 - 12 hours after the introduction to allow your new purchases to become acclimitised to their new home.

So there you go - 2 ways to properly introduce your fish, corals etc into your aquarium. It's not hard, it just takes patience. Remember that it is very important to be patient. The acclimatisation period should take as long as needed.

Give you fish, corals and inverts the best possible chance of survival from the outset but acclimitising them correctly.

Peter Cunningham and John Cunningham combined have been keeping salt water aquarium's for nearly 35 years. Visit their site 'Aquarists Online' if you are interested in the saltwater aquarium hobby.



Source: http://www.postarticles.com/Article/How-To-Acclimitise-New-Corals-And-Fish-Correctly/71749

El Conejo Como Mascota

Si lo que le preocupa de tener una macota es que tiene que sacarla a pasear 3 veces al d? entonces lo que puede hacer es cambiar de opci? adoptar una mascota menos problem?ca como lo es el conejo. Estos animales son muy cari?s y hacen sentir bien a la persona cuando se le acercan. Adem?los conejos pueden aprender a responder por un nombre y a diferentes est?los a medida que pasa el tiempo, como venir a alguien cuando lo llaman

Estas hermosas criaturas no necesitan vivir en un espacio muy grande, pero es recomendable que tengan un poco de espacio para moverse. Tengan en cuenta que a estas mascotas les crecen los dientes y empiezan a comer todo lo que hay a su alcance como las patas de las mesas, cables y otras cosas que tienen delante y ah?i tendr?ue ganar una fortuna en Casinos en L?a para reponer los da? Los conejos son animales muy silenciosos y adem?los conejos enanos y algunos otros suelen ser limpios y hacer sus necesidades en un mismo lugar adem?de asearse a si mismos.

En EE.UU., Gran Breta?Dinamarca y otros pa?s de Europa los conejos son las mascotas m?populares. Tambi?al igual que los perros, los hay en mas de 50 razas que incluyen diferentes colores, tama? pelajes y posici?e las orejas. Estos peque?animales son muy amorosos, sociables, compa?s y su capacidad de adaptarse a un lugar es casi inmediata.

Con respecto a la alimentaci?el conejo pues no es nada dif?l ya que un par de frutas vegetales y comida para conejo ya es suficiente y adem?no comen mucho. Ellos son amadores de la zanahoria, la lechuga y la manzana, de vez en cuando pueden darles estas frutas para que crezcan mucho m?fuertes. Si ud tiene hijos puede estar tranquilo de dejar al conejo con estos ya que esta mascota no muerde a las personas.

Lo que si es recomendable es la higiene de la jaula de los conejos, ya que si dejan pasar mucho tiempo sin limpiarla los conejos puede sufrir de alergias o brotes, adem?si el conejo tiene pulgas lo mejor que pueden usar es polvo para gatos ya que otros l?idos o productos son muy fuertes para estos.

En el momento de alimentarlos les puede dar dos cucharadas de concentrado para conejo y si prefiere, luego de esto le puede dar manzana, lechuga o zanahoria. Para que no tenga ning?nconveniente le vamos a dar algunos consejos que le pueden servir en el momento de criar a su conejo. 1. Preste atenci? los efectos despu?de que el conejo coma. Puede ser que este presente diarrea entonces hay que suspenderle la comida que le ha dado. 2. Pongale agua limpia todo el tiempo. 3. Limpie la jaula por lo menos dos veces por semana. 4. Lleve al conejo al veterinario cuando este tenga las u?largas para que este pueda cort?elas y de paso aprenda como hacerlo para que la pr?a ocasi?o pueda hacer ud mismo. 5. C?ele una piedra especial en una tienda de mascotas, esta piedra le permite al conejo pulir sus propios dientes.

La idea no es decir que el conejo es mejor mascota que el perro o el gato sino describir las cualidades de este para que las personas puedan elegir que mascota les queda mejor adoptar de acuerdo con las condiciones. Si necesitan mas informaci?ueden asesorarse en el Internet o en una tienda de mascotas.

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Source: http://www.pcwriters.com/Article/El-Conejo-Como-Mascota/102960

Fact about Raising Goats

Goats should be given many acres for roaming purpose in order to stay disease-free. Goats with restricted area will become unhealthy or may even die soon. You may not be successful in feedlot goats; they would not take stress and crowding. Unexpected problem would surely occur. Illnesses, climatic problems, broken fences, and these problems may occur at most inconvenient time as well, may be when you are totally exhausted. Do not breed for all markets it would generally results in failure, unless in case you have lots of acreages, cheap labor facility, and ton of money, you would not be able to produce quality breeding stock, show goats and slaughter animals. Each category is of specific kind and mutually exclusive for each other. If making the enormous dollar is your driving force, you are damned from the start. Focus on quality animals and sincere business dealings and the money would surely follow you.

Show goat and meat goats are two different type of animal. If in case you desire to raise meat goats, do not take any nutrition or management suggestion from show-goat people. Similarly do not try to make show goats into breeding stock or any commercial goats. If you find a deal which cheap bred does is in dead winter, then that deal is too good to be true. It is really tough to move them across the country under such conditions. Goats requite time to adapt themselves to new surroundings. You further need to use common sense when transporting and relocating them. Goats are delightful and very intelligent animals, but you need to remember they are not created to live inside the house with you. Forget the urbanite approach of raising goats. They prefer living outside and having a different social pecking order. A goat with big rumen should not necessarily be fat. A big rumen would have a good digestive factory. A goat is pot-bellied animals. Fat on a goat layers around internal organs and also forms "pones" or "handles", which you could grasp with your fingers at place like where the chest meets the front leg. If you could further pinch an inch of flesh at that particular point, the goat is likely fat.

Everybody should know that goats are not little cattle. Both goats and cattle are ruminants and that's the only similarity between them. A male goat always desires to reproduce his species in general and his lineage in particular. A buck in rut is called as a dangerous animal. He would look cute only when you were bottle feeding him. You really need to be careful around and always esteem the danger potential of breeding bucks. Bred does would kid in the bad possible weather. When sunshine changes to storms and the heat drops below freezing, the kidding process would then begin. Goats are mostly creatures of habit. If you have a goat, which frequently hangs its horns in fencing, that goat would stick its head in the same place time after time unless and until you fit those horns with a PVC pipe secured by duct tape. Goats are group animals. More so than any other stock, goats rely upon living together for safety. They have few usual defenses and many predators. Their line need not be perpetuated. Sell off the best of breeding stock and eat the rest.



Source: http://www.postarticles.com/Article/Fact-about-Raising-Goats/59815

Different Ways Of Transporting Your Pet Safely Posted By :

There are many ways to transport your pet. Depending on the reason for the transportation, it can be a quick and easy trip for both of you, or it can be a lengthy excursion that needs detailed planning in order to work for both of you. You will want to be sure to take any necessary steps to ensure the safety and comfort of your pet during any traveling.

For making those short trips by vehicle, you have various options to choose from. Some large dogs that are typically put in the back of a truck can still be stationed there safely with a manufactured harness built especially for keeping them safe in the back box of a truck while the vehicle is in motion. For smaller animals such as smaller dogs or cats, there are seat belts that can be adapted for the inside of your vehicle in order to keep them stationary and safe.

If you have a pet that does not stay stationary during travel or might harm themselves or others around them if being secured, you may want to invest in a carrier. By using a carrier they are free to relax inside during their short venture and are still able to see what is happening around them without posing a threat in a moving vehicle. There are many styles and sizes of carriers to choose from, so you have many options when it comes to colour, design or even ease of mobility.

For those larger trips in some countries there are pet transportation services. These companies do all the necessary work in order to prepare and transport your pet safely and efficiently to their destination. This type of company can be helpful if you have never transported a pet before and are unaware of the regulations for air or train travel for a live animal. They will have completed everything for you so you can relax knowing that your pet is in good hands and will see you at your final destination.

If it is a bird that you are transporting, you would be fine to use a small cage or even a cardboard box with air holes through it, but you would need a type of harness in order to eliminate the possibility of your bird flying away in fright once it has been released at the destination. There are a variety of harnesses or suits to fit birds of all sizes for this very reason. Your pet is part of your family and you will want to protect them from any dangers on the outside.

No matter which option you choose for your type of travels you will want to make sure that you are not sedating your pet. According to veterinarians, sedation can be harmful, and sometimes even fatal, for animals during travel. Do not feel that sedating them will make their trip, or yours, any easier. A pet that is well traveled with his owner will become accustomed to it and be a great companion on the road as well as at home.


Source: http://www.reprint-content.com/Article/Different-Ways-Of-Transporting-Your-Pet-Safely/158281

Help Our Pets through Disaster - San Diego Fire Storm 2007

It has truly been a week full of anxiety here at home, living through what has come to be known as San Diego Fire Storm 2007. Though we were among the fortunate to discover our home had been spared, night after night of following the dramatic news footage has really made me rethink the special place our pets and animals play in our lives. As heart-breaking as it was to watch so many homes lost to the fury of wildfires in Southern California, it was even harder when I realized that many animals and pets were left behind during the evacuation process. My dog Sugar, a Bichon Frise who turned one year old earlier this month, was stressing out the moment he smelled smoke in the air. We knew we could not stay long.

We live in Carmel Valley in San Diego. Starting late Sunday afternoon, 10/21/07, I noticed the smell of smoke coming from outside. Soon, the sky started getting dark and we realized that it must be a nearby fire. Sugar did not to want to go outside and began following us very closely, a behavior we know fondly as the Sugar Shadow. By Monday morning we watched the news tell us that the fire had gotten much worse over the long night and that our area was being evacuated. With my asthma being a very serious concern, we decided to get out of town where the air quality was not affected by the fires.

We found a pet-friendly room at the Westin Mission Hills Resort and Spa on 10/22/07 in Palm Springs area. This was Sugar's first hotel stay. Despite how lush and beautiful the hotel was, Sugar remained alert and woke up with every noise. When housekeeping was cleaning the room next to us, our normally calm little cotton ball wanted to bark. The poor little guy was not able to eat regularly or take care of business on his short walks.

Unfortunately, Westin was sold out for Tuesday night 10/23/07. There were many people coming from San Diego to get away from the choking air. They recommended that we try to stay at the Las Palmas Resort which is another pet-friendly place, so we called and booked a night there. Unfortunately, we found Las Palmas to be roach friendly as well. We found a large cockroach in the middle of the room when we woke up the next morning. Fortunately we found it before Sugar! It was difficult to walk Sugar around the resort as grass at both the front and back of our room were dead with major renovation. We discovered that they started work at 7am with construction sounds waking us and Sugar up. This was disconcerting as they never notified us that this would be happening when we checked in... After 2 nights at Palm Springs, we were ready to come home.

Sugar was really happy to be home yet with hesitation to go outside due to poor air quality. We have since watched more TV coverage relating to San Diego Fire Storm 2007 and saw news about animals or lost pets. Our hearts go to all fellow pet owners and pets. We urge people to donate to the San Diego Humane Society's Fire Storm 2007 to help with animal rescues and reuniting pets with their owners. While watching our own little guy, Sugar, deal with all the smoke, moving around and disruption to his life, we truly empathized with the struggles of the countless pets and animals and how they must have fared through this ordeal.

We love our Sugar and would love to extend that love to all fellow pet lovers!!!



Source: http://www.postarticles.com/Article/Help-Our-Pets-through-Disaster---San-Diego-Fire-Storm-2007/93504